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I am surprised that you did not comment on what, to me, is by far the most mind-bending feature of Christiania, which is its unique (as far as I am aware) approach to building, frequently described as "architecture without architects." Perhaps you opted to stay near the entrance, where most of the large buildings are? If so, I would highly recommend a second trip, focusing on the path around the canal, which will introduce you to some of the most most visually arresting homes you've ever seen in your life. What's most surprising is that there are not one or two examples of interesting homes, but dozens, at least. To the people who live in these properties, freedom means the freedom to construct and decorate their own dwellings according to their own aesthetic desires, free from the interference of restrictive building codes and planning requirements. It's genuinely striking how creative and individualized artistically talented people can make their own homes, when they are allowed (and culturally encouraged) to do so. It's hard to come back to the regular city and not feel that the dwellings we're used to living in are drab, boring, colorless in comparison.

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I did describe the painting on the buildings in the fifth paragraph, but neglected to see the homes you describe — I will definitely have to make another visit with the architecture in mind! I loved my time in Copenhagen, so I would be glad to return.

I did find that the art without artists lacked structure, the same way that kids in a summer camp might paint distractedly and for the sake of it. Having said that, I will keep an open mind to the architecture! I also appreciate the extension of the theme to building codes.

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Re the vendor who didn't want his goods photographed: 15 years ago the policy was no photographs anywhere in Christiania, not just photographing someone's goods. I assumed it was to do with making it harder to prosecute people for selling weed.

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I appreciate that context, that definitely makes sense!

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